![]() ![]() You can also connect a 5 V power supply source directly to the VCC pin, but it should be a regulated one. For example, it is suitable to operate the board with a 9 V block battery. Regardless of the exact supply voltage, I measured stable 5 V at the VCC pin. Very convenient is that you can operate the Pro Mini via the raw input with voltages between 5 and 12 V. ![]() Why they don’t stick to the grid measure is a mystery to me. Unfortunately, with both models you can’t conect A4 and A5 directly to a PCB circuit board. For the models shown above, they are located at the narrow end next to the reset button (left model) and above A2 and A4 (right model). ![]() In addition, the boards differ partly in the layout, especially in the position of the pins A4 (SDA) and A5 (SCL), which are required for the I2C communication. At Amazon you get the boards for roughly 3 Euros. ![]() I myself have only tried 328P /5V models. If you use 3.3 V components such as certain sensors, the 3.3 V variant can also be of interest for you. If you have developed your project with the UNO, then the 328P / 5V variant is most suitable, as full compatibility is guaranteed. Programming of the Arduino Pro Mini is very convenient! Various versionsįirst, there are four different versions of the microcontroller used, the operating voltage and the clock rate: I will first talk about the different versions of the Pro Mini, then about the sketch upload using the USB-to-TTL module and finally focus on trouble shooting. If you want to immortalize your project firmly in wire and solder, you usually don’t do this using an Arduino UNO, but choose either an ATtiny or ATmega microcontroller or a small board such as the Arduino Nano or the Arduino Pro Mini which is described here. ![]()
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